Vicarious Vietnam

The corners came quickly on our return to Sa Pa, yet I took each with furious fervor, revving my bike up the winding hills from which we descended an hour prior. Climbing back into the mist meant leaving the respite of Lao Cai’s warm, dry valley. The weather was much like we left it, if not more bone-chillingly soggy than before. A full helmet and wet-/warm-weather gear couldn't seal the frigid clouds from penetrating to the core.

Clouds abound from below and above in Sa Pa

Harry had just passed me after texting minutes earlier that he was out of petrol. I was eager to catch him and trade my souped-up moped for a hot, noodle soup. So I took the bait in the cat-and-mouse game we had been playing all afternoon and twisted the throttle a little tighter.

A sharp left suddenly appeared after a shallow descent, sneaking up on me daydreaming of future warmth. In a fearful split-second, I squeezed the right brake to slow down and avoid landing in the concrete ditch ahead. Apparently, that was the wrong move in this game. 

I have no memory of the time between being on the bike and on the ground. One moment I was riding, the next my body was lying in the middle of the road in searing, radiating pain. Now I understood the true meaning of tunnel-vision; my sight narrowed sharply onto my bike and all I could think of was getting it and myself off the road before another aggressive truck driver came in for the roadkill. 

Safely off the road’s shoulder, I slowly poked and prodded each body part. Miraculously, all were working despite throbbing pain in my hands and along my left side. It seemed only a minute or so passed as I saw a figure appear in my returning peripheral vision. Harry hobbled over to me, scraped up and scowling with one arm cradling the other. I was surprisingly unsurprised to see him. I was grateful he was there as well.

Shock quickly took hold. I started hyperventilating uncontrollably as nausea spread through me to join the pain. A few minutes passed before my breathing calmed and I regained control of my faculties. Harry and I traded war stories. Perhaps one minute ahead of me, he too had been racing to beat the cold. Instead of pulling the brake to slow, he over-compensated on his turn, leaning too quickly and sliding out across the road, only narrowly avoiding the aforementioned ditch.

After gathering ourselves and forming a plan, we called the rental shop via locals who arrived at the scene and translated for us. We drove the bikes back to town— rather slowly this time — and paid about $50 in damages for Harry’s; mine was scuffed up but I escaped further ruin that day. 

We began to limp down the hill to our hotel so Harry, a newly minted doctor in Australia, could patch up our scrapes. Soon after, we passed a bar and my new mate proclaimed — in true Aussie fashion — “Fuck it! We’re getting beers.” Hey, doctor’s orders, right??

———

I met Harry just two days prior in Hanoi. He was the first person I met in Vietnam, having approached me at an airport ATM to withdraw my first cache of Dong, the local currency. I wondered at first if I was getting robbed before setting foot outside the airport. However, he sought to share a ride to the backpacker district and rightly marked me for heading in that direction. We became quick mates and decided to travel north for a bit of a bimble in the rice fields.

Now we stepped gingerly out of Sa Pa’s cold mist and into the smoky, warm bar. I’m not sure why he picked ‘Why? Bar’ — perhaps it was the Aussie flag hung prominently on the walls. The venue choice would prove fortuitous. 

Reggae and a jolly proprietor welcomed us as we sat on low stools around one of two fire pits. The smoke came from an apparent lack of exhaust as well as the Thuoc Lao, local tobacco the patrons piped from bong-like vessels. We ordered a few Tiger beers and subsequent rounds quickly followed, for analgesic purposes, of course.

A conversation was quickly struck with new acquaintances at our fire. Benoit and Marine were newlyweds just beginning a multi-month honeymoon through SE Asia. They planned to buy a motorbike in Hanoi and ride down the long, thin country to Saigon, a popular — if not primary — means for backpackers to explore the country. I had arrived here playing with the same idea. But if I had trepidations about that plan coming in, today’s experience sealed the deal for me: biking was definitely out. Or so I thought.

I spoke with Benoit for a bit and we figured what I had done wrong. Lesson: ALWAYS pull the left (i.e. back) brake first; never pull the right before also using the left. No wonder I flew over the handlebars so quickly and why my bike was behind me — the front wheel planted and sent me straight into the road. He and Marine repeatedly assured me biking was safe so long as I was careful.

The beer flowed through that night and Matty “Cheese”, another random Aussie with long, blonde dreads, joined our party. I eventually got my soup and began to relax and laugh at myself and my amateur riding skills. Maybe I’d give the bike ride through Vietnam another (careful) shot.

As a result of Harry’s and my accident and his subsequent ‘script for beers-as-painkillers, I met my future riding-mates — Benoit, Marine, and Matty (before he left on his own) — for a motorbike adventure through Vietnam. I’d eventually see Cheesy again in Saigon, and then again in Melbourne in May (thanks again, C*!). Harry and I would also reconnect later in Sydney so he could contribute to the worst hangover I suffered in Australia (no surprises there). And I almost saw Marine and Benoit again in Bordeaux was it not for a ticketing snafu on my behalf; je suis désolé, mates!

Vietnam treated me incredibly well in spite of — or perhaps because of — my initial mishap. This incident certainly illustrated the beautiful serendipity and synchronicity of my travels. 

So now, here are some Vietnam tips based on my very specific experience there…

* ;-P

———

Tackling Vietnam in a short section is a task as tall as the country is long. I’m going to keep this specific to my experience as a backpacking biker but I’ll try to keep you fancy travelers in mind as well. I’ll (quickly) take you through each stop on my route to hit the highlights of each. Let’s ride! But first, let’s talk about…

When to Go: While much of the planning for my trip-at-large was on the fly, I did try to consider ahead of time when to arrive in Vietnam. Forrest Gump was a childhood classic so the montage of Forrest walking through the myriad types of rain during the monsoon was soaked indelibly in my mind.

I chose November for my arrival as many of the sources I consulted noted this was a prime month to avoid the rain while touring the country. That plan was a nice idea but ‘Nam wanted me to taste the rain myself; I had more than my fill as our bike journey was momentarily sidetracked by deluges of it. Whenever you decide to go, keep in mind Viet rain can hit you when you least expect.

The next thing to consider is how to get around. I mentioned that I ended up taking a motorbike down the country — at least partially down (more on that later). It was not a decision without heavy consideration. After minimal research, I first bandied the idea of the motorbike with fast friends I made in Jerusalem. They were gung-ho for the bike, particularly Colin, an Irishman who had lived in 'Nam and was unflinching in his endorsement. He quelled any fears I had about never riding a motorbike bigger than a moped or with a manual transmission. 

Hence, I was tepidly in on the idea pre-arrival in Hanoi, prematurely overconfident while joyriding out of Sa Pa, 1000% out on ever biking again after crashing, and on my way to being sold again after a few Tigers, a lot of reassurance and the offer of riding together from the French and Aussie.

PROS for biking through Vietnam: 

• If buying a bike (consensus is against renting), you can sell it back to a traveler heading in the opposite direction as the route is VERY well-worn; there will be plenty of buyers at the end. If you’re a good negotiator and keep the bike maintained and damage-free (not the easiest task), you can end up spending little to no money — or even profit! — on your chariot by the end of your trip. You can buy used or new.
  • I went with a new bike in Hanoi for $600 since the shop I used gave a buy-back guarantee of $400, provided the bike was serviced to their standards and crash-free. $200 net out of pocket — plus gas (crazy cheap) and service ($100 max) — for one month of transport was cool with me. This guarantee would eventually come in super handy for my particular situation. 
• You have ultimate flexibility on where and when to go places so you’ll be able to see a lot more and interact more with the locals than you would taking tours or buses/trains/planes around. This alone is well underrated. I also quickly learned the timeless thrill of taking your own bike out for scenic joy rides.
• You will make this trip what you want but this method will undoubtedly up the adventure and memorability level versus relying on others to move you around the country.

CONS:

• When I said you’ll be interacting more with locals, this might very easily include regular rendezvous with garages and repair shops along your route. Many of the used bikes you’ll encounter have traveled the route to and from and had service/parts replaced incredible amounts without a verifiable track record. Apart from routine maintenance you’ll need to do for all bikes (oil changes, chain/brake tightening, etc.), buying the wrong bike could mean finding yourself in the service shop daily and out a lot more Dong than you anticipated. Just ask Matty Cheese and many others I met along the way. Although I never made it to the more remote parts of the route, you may find yourself far from a service location. Staying on the road and out of the garage was the primary reason I went with a new bike.
• There’s no denying it: riding is risky, very much so. All throughout my bike trip, I heard continuous stories of people crashing, saw the after-effects of crashes, and even witnessed one particularly egregious crash involving my new mates and a ludicrously reckless local. Suffice to say, be vigilant and careful at ALL times. There’s no need to speed — you’re going to get where you need to and you’ll be happier if you don’t have to visit a local clinic in the process. I highly recommend buying protective gear like leg and elbow pads, and a good helmet is priceless. And yet, after controlling for everything on your end, you’re still going to be at the mercy of large trucks and buses on narrow, windy roads which are sometimes in good conditions, other times barely ridable without slowing considerably. Beware.

All that said, if you’re up for the adventure (and have good travel / health insurance!), I think this is an excellent way to see the country. A memory for a lifetime for sure.

Ok, NOW, let’s ride!

The woman at a hostel in Ninh Binh greeted me with, "Oh, Batman!," followed by typical SE-Asian laughter. Not sure why, but Safety First, people of Gotham!

Hanoi

I arrived on November 7th, 2016, the day before “the election.” I can’t help but think the stress of the following day somehow colored my experience here. I came in focused on the semi-stressful task of buying a bike, then was consumed by the horror and fear of the impending Trump incumbency. I also only spent two two-day jaunts in the city before moving on. That said, the following are some of my Hanoi highlights.

The food in Vietnam was a huge reason to make it one of my favorite countries on my trip. Hanoi began that love of Viet cuisine big time. You can find delectable and cheap noodles and soups anywhere you walk and I’m fond of the known tip to go where the locals are. Don’t let first impressions of places fool you — you’re here for the delicacies, not the ambiance. Here are just a few of the places I loved: 

Bun bo nam no: 67 Hàng Điếu, Cửa Đông, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam

Banh mi 25: 25 Hàng Cá, Hàng Đào, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam

New Day: 72 Mã Mây, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hoàn Kiếm Hà Nội, Vietnam

The Vietnam Military Museum here is a decent way to spend a few hours but also passable; if you’re going to only go to one such place, save it for the American War Museum in Saigon/Ho Chi MInh City (more to come on that).

The Temple of Literature is an interesting diversion for an hour or two, especially if you catch it on a graduation day when thousands of graduates line the paths in their formal wear for massive group pictures.

You’ll find plenty to eat and see in the Old Quarter. This was my introduction to the sumptuous cuisine of Vietnam. Take a chance on any place that looks like locals are enjoying themselves. Also, check out the Bia Hoi (translates to "fresh beer") street where daily-made beer is served for around $0.25 a cup. Freshness doesn’t equal quality, mind you, but the price-taste ratio simply can’t be beaten.

Sa Pa

One overnight bus to the northwest of Hanoi lies Sa Pa. While the town itself is unrefined and increasingly touristic, the surrounding country is a beautiful respite from Vietnam’s capital. Yes, this was the site of the infamous bike crash but don’t let that dissuade you — there are plenty of places to crash your bike throughout the country! 

Kidding aside, there are very good reasons to get up to Sa Pa and the North. The verdant rice terraces are so picturesque and the trekking is fairly challenging and quite enjoyable. That is as long as it isn’t raining. If the forecast leans heavily towards rain, you might reconsider going.

Cloud-living in my Sa Pa homestay 

I spent three nights there, two in an unremarkable hotel sandwiching one night’s stay in the mountains at a family homestay. The trek+homestay was a certain highlight of my trip, particularly after the crash. Waking up from the overnight bus, you’ll be greeted by cold mist and a group of women waiting outside. Likely from the Hmong people, they will offer to take you trekking to their homes where you’ll be hosted for a night or two, depending on your preference. 

Pro tip: Arranging the travel to Sa Pa in Hanoi and negotiating with the women on your own will both save you money and net the women more in their pocket than if you were to buy a prepackaged tour in Hanoi. Yes, the latter is easier but the former is not difficult either. 

The result will be to see the local Hmong in their daily life, almost always smiling and welcoming, as well as a wonderful vista and home-cooked family style meal.

The girl of the family who brought Harry and me to her family's home, her adorable siblings, and the sweet, new friends with whom I shared that special night.

Ha Long Bay (via Cat Ba island)

Cat Ba was the first stop on Marine & Benoit’s and my bike trip. Leaving mid-morning from Hanoi in its famously chaotic traffic, all while learning to drive a manual bike for the first time, was certainly memorable. We stopped for a roadside lunch — the first time I ate crickets (!), very fishy due to an assumed heavy hand with fish sauce — before taking a late afternoon ferry from Haiphong, arriving at the island after dark in the early evening.

We came to Cat Ba to see Ha Long Bay, one of the Seven Natural Natural wonders of the world. The island is one of two ways to visit the Bay, the other being the town of Ha Long. We chose Cat Ba as the Frenchies’ Routard guidebook said Ha Long was crowded and unremarkable, whereas Cat Ba had more to offer than just an embarkation to Ha Long.

The Vietnamese food was great on the island: we had two very good seafood dinners in town, picking out multiple items to have cooked a la minute; the restaurant at the foot of the hospital cave served delicious and cheap fare; and when we switched hostels to go to stay at the beautifully lazy Woodstock Backpackers, the highlight was the family dinner served every night — the mouthwatering hot-pot stands out in my memory.

Speaking of Woodstock, this is a great place to lose yourself for a few days. Mellow music streams consistently to help you melt in the copious hammocks and mattresses that beckon you to take it easy. Benoit, Marine and I certainly needed some R&R after a harrowing accident initiated by an idiotically reckless local left them both with ugly scrapes and bruises. Witnessing the crash in a split-second was perhaps even more traumatizing for me than experiencing my own accident. Woodstock’s food, patrons, staff and laconic vibes came through for us as the two of them recovered ahead of the next leg of our journey.

For actual activities on the island, hiking up the picturesque mountain trail in Cat Ba National Park will leave you glistening with sweat, but the vistas and the ice-cold, fresh coconut water at the bottom make it worth it. 

Happy monkeys at the bottom of Cat Ba National Park

The former Hospital Cave from the war is haunting and worth a visit. And the sunset from the former mountaintop Cannon Fort was beautiful through the clouds; I can only imagine what it’s like with less of them.

Sun's blazing from the Cannon Fort above Cat Ba

And now for Ha Long Bay. It's clear why it made the recent ‘7 Natural Wonders of the World’ list. Spanning an area of over 1,500 square kilometers, you’ll only see a small portion of it on your day trip or overnight boat ride, but you’ll see plenty. The limestone karsts that define the area are magnificent, ranging from 50 to 100 meters in height. You’ll pass floating villages inhabitated by local fishermen as you set out, then take a long journey from Monkey Island past Candlestick karst, swim in the bay as well as kayak through caves in the karsts. It’s a long and fulfilling day and I’ve heard the overnight boats are great if you find the right one.

Iconic Ha Long

Ninh Binh: We only stayed here one night as we arrived late in the day from our bike trip down from Cat Ba. However, we were able to take a joy ride out to witness the beauty of the inland karsts at sunset. You clearly see why people call it, The Inland Ha Long Bay. Another fantastic meal shared with friends at our backpacker rounded out a wonderful day there.

If this is only one night in Ninh Binh, I wonder what another could bring...

Dong Hoi: We had met Matty in Ninh Binh and decided to ride together down to Dong Hoi to see the famous caves in Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park. Well, that was the plan until we saw the ride was long and unremarkable and the forecast called for pounding rain. So, we decided to experience the joy of packing our bikes on a day-long train down to the beachside town.

When we arrived, the rain was still pouring hard and we had to fill our bikes with petrol as they were emptied prior to boarding the train. An, an incredibly friendly local proprietor of the beachside backpacker, was unknowingly and fortuitously waiting for us (or any backpacker in need). Even though we had a place to stay, An saved our day, grabbing a small amount of petrol and cheap ponchos to get us going. As mentioned earlier, Matty’s bike was in perpetual need of service. When his bike wouldn’t start at the train station, An treated us to a true feat of Vietnamese ingenuity, riding alongside Matty’s bike and using his foot to push Matty along to our hotel. 

The rain continued to dump the next day, so we decided to take up An on his invitation to stay at his place, Beachside Backpackers, and it was one of the more fortuitous decisions we made. We ended up lazing at his place for several nights, feasting on delicious local beer and fare he and his staff prepared, including a sumptuous Vietnamese BBQ I will always remember and juicy, crispy coconut chicken fingers that supplanted turkey for Thanksgiving night. Just as memorable was my birthday the night after when my small tribe danced and drank the night away, djaying our favorite tunes and playing pool on a hilariously deformed table alongside the rainy beach. 

An continued to come through for us. He took Matty to the doctor after a freak accident from climbing out of bed caused him to bust his heal badly, requiring stitches and meds. An also arranged a visa run for us into Vientiane, Lao. When we returned from that eventful trip, An had a cake waiting for me as he hadn’t known it was my birthday earlier and wanted me to have a proper celebration on top of the one I had already enjoyed. 

Matty entertaining the locals (and us) before boating through the caves on my birthday

We had come for the caves in Phong Na, which were beautiful and a fun day trip. But it was An and his incredible hospitality and generosity which made a random trip to the otherwise ordinary Dong Hoi one of the true highlights of my trip.

The legendary An

Hue: A charming and delicious town, I enjoyed my three days here even though they would prove somewhat tumultuous. Marine, Benoit and I biked our way through the continued rain and arrived soaked at a cheap but friendly hotel to hang our things and try to dry out, which proved rather difficult in the thick humidity. The food was fantastic, whether it was a random local Banh place we gorged at, or the famed Bun Bo Hue you see everywhere. 

Another culinary delight was found in Nina’s Cafe. The decor and ambiance are both cozy with a surprisingly great soundtrack played mellowly in the background. But the food is the draw here. While the set menus are slightly more expensive than your typical restaurant, the plentiful food they offer is spectacular. I distinctly remember the hand-rolled egg-pancake-spring roll dish, first offered at An’s backpacker, here even more satisfying than when I first experienced it.

The Imperial City is the centerpiece of the city and you can lose yourself here for a day in all the nooks and hidden gems. It is massively impressive, particularly for the fact that one of the most intense battles during the War took place in Hue, decimating much of the city but mostly sparing the antiquity of the Citadel. 

Bonjour, frere! (You ma boy, Benoit)

After discovering I had a visa issue on the run into Lao, I thought I could correct the problem at the immigration office here. Several visits proved fruitless and I discovered I would have to cut my bike trip down the country short in order to fly to Saigon to sort it out there. Thankfully, the shop I bought my bike in Hanoi had a partner shop in Hue. Part of my original deal was to get free service there on my way south but instead they would be the ones to buy my bike back so I could fly down. It was very fortunate to have that option as I probably wouldn’t have found another buyer in time.

I was supremely sad to finish my bike trip, both because I would miss out on some of the peak sights and experiences that the route had left to offer and more so because I was leaving my new bro and sis behind. Little did I know what would await me in Saigon.

Les tres amis. Au revoir, pour now, mates!

Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City: Don’t worry, you can still call it Saigon. I asked the locals and they still call it that. I find it more romantic and easier to roll off the tongue. So let’s speak Saigon.

Of the two biggest cities, Saigon takes the cake for me over Hanoi. Again, mindset and situation probably play a role but it was in Saigon I allowed myself to let loose. I think the lack of strain from worrying about my bike, my visa and planning my route allowed me to play and explore. I also reconnected with friends I had met up north and with whom I continue to connect along my travels (hey, Matty, Nicole and Rob!)

I feasted voraciously from the jump, hitting up scrumptious noodle shops left and right. The food highlight has to be the ubiquitous Com Tam, which was my first meal in Saigon. It is found almost everywhere and almost always excellent. Get yourself some. 

The first of many tasty noodles in Saigon, not the first of a long line of friendly Viet faces; grilling Com Tam on the streets of District 1 and the finished product along with iced jasmine tea to wash it down.

On the other end of the spectrum, Mani Vegan was quite a tasty and light respite from the heavier fare. 

As a backpacker, Propaganda restaurant was super expensive as compared to the soups and street meals you could have for $1-2. But the food is certainly more carefully considered and composed (and yummy) and the aptly designed propaganda-inspired decor all make for a worthwhile visit.

The decor draws you -- even the napkins are artworks -- but the food hypnotizes you at Propaganda

I spent a lot of time on Bui Vien street but even if you’re not backpacking, you should check this place out. Lots of nightlife and craziness resides here, but gold can be found at the far end of the street. Dong Bac dumplings are Chinese in origin and some of the best I’ve ever had, and that’s no hyperbole. Get a plate each of fried and steamed for yourself — you’ll be shocked how quickly you knock them back. Craft beer is hard to come by so if you fancy a decent, locally made IPA, check out The Chicken Coop, where I spent more than my fair share of time.

Dong Bac is the King. View from Bui Vien, so it doesn't fly by you

As for sites, there is plenty to offer. Markets abound in Vietnam — and SE Asia — but the most impressive for me was Binh Dien (btw, this site is a beautiful resource for traveling and biking Vietnam). The wholesale fish, meat and produce market is Vietnam’s largest. It’s located on the outskirts of the city and built for locals, so when you arrive by 6 am (before most things are sold out), the vendors will be surprised and yet delighted to see you. When I first started walking the aisles around 5:30, the warehouse I was in was mostly empty and the vendors appeared surly as I snapped a few photos. I first thought the ungodly wakeup call to get here was a bad decision but I was sorely mistaken. I met heaps of jubilant local vendors more than happy to have their picture taken, as well as joke and laugh at me with their friends. The bounty of food and joyful people made this another distinct highlight of my trip.

This guy -- and everyone else at Binh Dien -- made this experience a true highlight of my journey. What a morning!

On the other end of the emotional spectrum, The American War Museum — as it’s known in Vietnam — was a sad and sobering experience, yet wholly invaluable to my time there. Opening your eyes to different perspectives is, of course, one of the primary tenets for travel. The Museum is a superb vehicle for providing just that. The layout and curation of the exhibits provide a visceral experience of what life was life before, during and after the War. Seen through the Viet lens, my time here was one of many in my travels to open my eyes to the horror of senseless human atrocity. On a personal level, I also happened to meet my future three-month travel-mate here, making this a formative experience for my time in Vietnam.

War: what is it good for?

To provide more levity, I recommend hitting the rooftop bar at Hotel Des Arts for some classy cocktails and vistas of Saigon at night. If you fancy more of a party on a roof, Glow Sky Bar could fit the bill nicely.

After a full week, I airlifted out of Saigon to begin my adventures in Thailand and beyond. But as you can see from the above, my first full country review, Vietnam holds a very special place in my heart. You best believe I will return, most likely to finish the bike journey I abruptly ended in Hue. I wish you have an equally exciting and fulfilling time in vibrant Vietnam.