Krystaline Koh Phangan
Butterflies blew in the air around me from the moment I set foot on Koh Phangan. Now they flitted about subtly in my stomach as I walked up to Jaran’s Wellness, Yoga, and Eatery. I was here for my first ecstatic dance on the island to finish my fourth day on the island. I experienced ecstatic twice before in Bali, so this wasn’t my first energetic dance journey. Still, I was slightly nervous for a few reasons. It all started in my first days here.
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I jumped head first into all the island offered the minute I arrived on KP. Fresh off the overnight train and early morning ferry, I headed straight to the afternoon Innerdance session at Pranayama Garden I had eyed and planned for in Bangkok. I remained there that evening at the suggestion of my new friend, Jacqueline, for a Shiva-Shakti event I knew little else about.
I soon learned it was the final tantra workshop to be led by a revered teacher leaving the island the next day. I had previously set an intention for my time here to be fully open to and present for whatever I experienced here. This workshop provided an immediate opportunity to practice that intention and I took away much from it as a result.
That full first day led into many others like it, hiking and meditating by waterfalls, inhaling seafood curries and too many coconuts to count, and meeting new friends I would soon call family (Phamily) all along the way.
The third day began with a morning hike up turgid, twin waterfalls, followed by a scrumptious omelet and iced coffee at the tranquil farm-to-table joint, Seed to Feed. Luke, Jacqueline and I then returned to Pranayama later in the morning for another tantra workshop, this time with my prior knowledge.
Still green to tantra, I quelled any nervousness around the unknown by returning to my breath and intention of presence. As we proceeded through each exercise, I was rewarded with warm hugs and long-held eye contact from both my friends and complete strangers.
One particularly alluring, young woman caught my eye as I perceived a slowly building, mutual connection. When it came time to pick a partner for the final exercise, our gazes found each other’s across the room and we agreed to pair up.
The exercise was to practice the art of conscious touch. Our teacher instructed on how to proceed, using only the palm — never the back of the hand — to give unconditional love through considered and consistent touch.
I had only said a few words to this woman in a prior exercise when we stopped to pay compliments to each other. Now I was taking my shirt off to lay down half-naked as she knelt next to me.
The session began as she pet me and whispered a mantra in my ear every so often: “While being caressed, sweet prince, enter the caress as everlasting life.” Her touch was loving and filled me simultaneously with exhilaration, tranquility, care and a more than a few butterflies in my stomach.
When my turn came to reciprocate, I was full of love ready to transmit to her. It was one of the first in a line of many transformative experiences to come here. I left glowing.
After class, many of the participants decided to lunch at an Indian buffet down the road. I formally met more of my classmates here, making some connections that would prove quite powerful down the road. But my eyes couldn’t help coming back to my partner, sparking further flutters in my belly.
That feeling returned as I sped recklessly to Zen beach that evening to met her for sunset. And when she decided to sit in yab yum with me on the sand while we waxed poetic and philosophic. And the next day when I arrived at Jaran’s to dance.
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I wore new fisherman pants, black with rusty-red waist, purchased for the vipassana retreat I intended to attend a few weeks later. It was a fashion I hadn’t worn before, yet one I knew fit with the spirit of the island and the dance. Somehow I was nervous about wearing them. But it was also about dancing with new people in this still novel place. And also a bit about seeing my new partner in “krime.”
I walked up the stairs to Jaran’s main space, gliding across the expansive concrete floor under a soaring roof, aerial silks dangling from the rafters and tied onto the side pillars. Looking out the side of the open space, the waning sun’s glow across the lush Thai jungle and short mountains not far in the distance set the stage for a magical night. As with any good magic act, I had no idea what I was in for, so I later wrote in my journal.
The DJ was already moving people with his version of a heavy warmup, A Tribe Called Quest stirring the blood through our grooving limbs. Soon, the DJ/maestro called the crowd to form a circle and set the intention of the evening: to dance with love, purpose, and most importantly, without speaking to each other; verbal exaltation and expression were otherwise permitted.
After consecrating the space, we were allowed to move about freely to wherever the spirit took us. Somehow I found myself in the center.
Goosebumps stirred through me as Azawade rolled through the speakers for the DJ’s first selection. A friend from NYC once sent this to me prior to my trip and I got nostalgic thinking about him and home. I immediately felt the energy course through and around me.
Like with my previous Innerdance experiences, I closed my eyes and started playing with the energy, my body gently rocking while my hands formed mudras gliding through the air.
Another intention I brought to the island was to be OK with being myself, without seeking the approval or relying on the comfort of others — particularly of the opposite sex. To be OK with simply Being.
When I opened my eyes and saw others already paired up and dancing together, sometimes intimately, I quickly caught the feelings of jealousy and longing, throwing them away from me and coming back into the comfort of myself.
The songs continued to crescendo and with it the energy built. I felt my heart expanding with growing gratitude, for being here in this gorgeous setting with gorgeous people, and for new lessons to internalize and grow myself. Closing my eyes, then opening them, I met the gazes of others and returned their smiles in kind.
I laughed. I choked back subtle sobs. I was exuberant, releasing what I didn’t need, imbibing what I did. As the songs picked up their pace and intensity, I moved freer, finding my friend, Ellen, and other women (and men), smiling and dancing without thinking.
I saw her, my once tantra partner, dancing with other men. At once I felt jealous. And just as quickly, I saw how ridiculous I was to feel that, knowing I didn’t have possession of her, or anyone really. That I never had nor ever would possess anyone, truly. I was happy for her happiness to be there in the moment.
Likewise, I was grateful again for catching myself and allowing myself to be there in that moment, for myself. And once she came to me, or I to her, we danced with beauty, intent, and joy.
Soon I was moving so quickly and grooving so hard that I had to rest when the DJ slowed down the pace. I thought the night was coming to an end and did some simple yoga stretches before sitting exhausted in the middle of the dance floor. But then the beat built again and I watched from the floor and then from the side as people continued the party.
The DJ spun some soulful disco-house, a top genre of mine, eventually forcing me out of my stupor and back into the writhing mass. I uncovered a new reserve of energy and found myself at the front by the DJ and the speakers, bouncing, shaking, twerking the rest of the night away with nothing but smiles across my body. I was Ecstatic indeed.
The music was still going but I eventually had to remove myself downstairs to grab water and sit down. Unsurprisingly, my partner was there, seemingly waiting for me, and we sat in the grass, hand in hand, sharing our experience and lessons with each other.
We later joined friends from the dance at Taboon, eating scrumptious Sabih on my first visit to what would become a go-to during my time here. After we finished, I drove her to her bungalow village and we walked to the beach to star gaze. We found a spot quickly, laying down in the sand to hold each other and doze off. A simultaneously weird and friendly stranger walked to the water and stood close by us and we realized our time was up.
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Reader, don’t be misled; this wasn’t a story of kiss-and-tell. Far from it, actually, as I never got to place my lips on hers during our time together. Yet my experience with her was as fulfilling as if had we had kissed, and perhaps even more so.
When I arrived, I didn’t know what I wanted exactly from my stay on Koh Phangan. In the end, I got exactly what I needed, fulfilling my intentions of presence and self-love, and learning myriad lessons, particularly to Surrender.
I continued on a semi-frenetic pace of participating in all kinds of events and modalities to do the Work on my Self. And so I never made it to that vipassana retreat. I was exhausted from but also satisfied by my first two weeks, learning as much or more than I might have in silent, meditative isolation. I already received what I wanted and more, and now I had a beautiful group of friends -- my Koh Phamily -- to share the coming New Year’s celebration with.
I’m forever grateful for having loved Koh Phangan, and particularly the many people I met here. I’d like to share with you now all that I loved about this magical place.
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I spent five inexplicably beautiful weeks on the island and I expect I’ll be spending more time there in the near future. I wish I could share all of these beautiful moments with you but I’ll inevitably fall short. Here is my attempt through specific places and things I recommend you do. I’ll also be writing a more esoteric blog on my thoughts on and from here. But now, let’s get to some specifics.
Getting to Koh Phangan:
I arrived in Bangkok and stayed for three days to get supplies and ride out my pretty significant jet-lag. So before you arrive, pick up things you might not be able to find on an island.
The provisions here are actually quite decent. The main town, Thong Sala, has plenty of markets for tourist swag and 7-11s and Family Marts abound — increasingly and unfortunately — where you can get most basic sundry items. This leads me to say…
Get here now! Don’t wait until it’s inevitably over-developed. The secret is out.
I arrived by taking the 7 pm overnight train to Surat Thani and hopping on the ferry from the station. I booked the Songserm ferry package from the main train station in Bangkok, which cost around 1200 Baht for train & ferry. That’s not only super reasonable but the experience is really easy and comfortable. Even at 6’0,” I was comfortable and fell asleep easily; the rocking train really put me in a trance.
It was my second time taking a sleeper train in Thailand and probably not my last. The company picks you up from outside the train and the transfer process, albeit a bit slow, is seamless and will get you to the island by early afternoon. I’d possibly look at Lomprayah for ferry service as they usually are a bit quicker.
Otherwise, you can fly from BKK to either Surat Thani or Koh Samui and take ferries from either. Easy. Now you’re here so…
Rent a motorbike:
It’s the easiest way to get around the island. Don’t bother with a car unless you need one. A few items of note when doing so.
I rented from a shop in Thong Sala to make it easy to return and then hop straight on the ferry. Shops are everywhere, though. I paid 150 baht/day but you might be able to haggle for better (it’s not my strong suit).
Be sure to take extensive, detailed pictures of your bike before you leave. I ended up paying about $30 for scratches, which might or might not have been my fault. I got pretty angry given my sadness and raw nerves around leaving, but I did end up haggling down to that price and avoided them calling the cops, so I had that going for me.
Gas is super cheap but only refill at actual stations if you can manage it. I started by filling up every day or so with two 40 baht bottles at places you’ll see all along the roadside. I soon learned that it’s quicker and much cheaper to refill at a station. You shouldn’t have to go more than once every 4-5 days.
Be careful on the roads. Aside from my advice on my Vietnam blog, pay attention to the road surface. You’re on an island and sand is everywhere. There are also tons of hills and curves. People drive way too recklessly and I saw poor souls with white gauze bandages EVERY DAY. Don’t be one of those people. It’ll make me sad.
Should you need a hospital, I was told the First Western Hospital is the one to visit; the others provide questionable care at best.
Ok, now let’s get to the good, nay GREAT stuff…
Activities/Places/Things to do:
My experience on the island was fairly focused on the town of Sri Thanu and the Northwest side of the island. This is where the “conscious community” is primarily located and where I felt most at home.
Speaking of, before you arrive, join the KP Conscious Community and related Event groups on Facebook. You’ll get loads of info on where to go and what to do while there and you’ll probably make some friends on or from it.
As the first rule of the events page states, the events are sans alcohol. There are plenty of places to party on the island such as the famed Full and Half Moon parties. Those take place on the other half of the island and I never made it to those or the other ones you’ll see promoted all over Thong Sala and Baan Tai. I almost did Full Moon but got a bit irie at Amsterdam Bar and was too tired to make the effort. I just wasn't there for that kind of party.
You can have a great time in Sri Thanu (see above), typically without alcohol, although it’s not a rule by any means. Full-mooners usually stay to their part of the island, which is nice. Don’t worry you can have your cake and eat it too.
Here are my suggestions for activities:
- Ecstatic Dance: As you might’ve deduced from my story, I really enjoy ecstatic on multiple levels and I really think you should try it if you haven’t or if you’re looking to continue the practice. Jaran’s was the only venue I danced at. I rang in the New Year there at Ecstatica, a festival that started with a cacao ceremony and breath-work session, which set the stage for an amazing night of salsa, contact, and then ecstatic dance up and through midnight. This was one of my more memorable NYE’s, dancing exuberantly with dear friends and new ones alike. Other venues offer ecstatic dance, including the Pyramid, which I hear is really sweet. However, I only went there for…
- Kirtan: also known as chanting. This practice helps you devote yourself to a higher power while listening to incredibly dulcet tones of the chant leader, Akari. I believe the Pyramid offers kirtan on Sundays in their sound dome, quite a beautiful venue to get your chant on. Agama yoga school also offers a similar night called Bhajans if you want something in Sri Thanu proper. Near the Pyramid is…
- The Dome: By far one of my favorite spots on the island, I was introduced to this outdoor sauna complex on Christmas Eve. After a lovely friend’s birthday dinner and a stop by the Rasta Bar for a puff and some laughs, we decided to take our friend, Minty’s, invitation to stop by while she worked. Once again, I had no idea what I was in for. Laconically etherial Xmas carols played on the speakers as people walked around in towels and spoke in hushed tones under the stars. Small fires burned as those fresh from the sauna lazed around them. Static red and green lasers dotted the rocky wall 10 meters away. I exchanged my clothes for a towel around my waist and set off for one of two steam rooms. This one was shaped similarly to the sound dome at the Pyramid, only this one was far hotter and more humid. A man with a deep baritone let out a low, growling rumble with each breath that reverberated around the walls and into my chest. As I settled into the heat, I joined my voice with his, creating a tribal chant vibration. When I left, I joined my friends by the fire, sipping kombucha and watching Minty do an interpretive dance to “Oh, Holy Night” while a psychedelic screensaver projected over her and the laser wall. I don’t imagine that night will soon be matched. But I returned several more times to sweat and relax fireside under the stars and a full moon with trippily relaxing tones washing over me. I highly recommend doing the same.
- Hiking / Waterfalls: I did a fair amount of hiking and waterfall chasing in my first few weeks on the island and I left a lot of them on the table for my next time. It rained right before I arrived, so the waterfalls were quite full. I recommend going to the one before you get to Mae Haad, to the left of the manmade one at the adventure park. Once you arrive at the rope course, head left and up the rocky stream and in about 400 meters, you’ll arrive at a much more natural and tranquil one to zen out at and take a dip under. Also, definitely go to the twin waterfalls at Phaeng. Finally, try to make the climb to the Khao Ra, the highest point on the island. Well worth the effort and apparently a great hike for sunrise or sunset, but I did it in the morning to beat the heat. Paradise waterfall is an easy affair but also offers a great view if you can scale the last bit, which takes just a bit more effort.
- Zen Beach: One of my all-time favorite spots on the island, it lives up to and surpasses its name. Of the myriad gorgeous sunsets I took in, I can think of only two that weren’t from here. The island is blessed with many things including talented musicians and artists who gather along with families and other beachgoers every evening to play their instruments and make for some of the most epic drum circles I’ve partaken in. Aside from sunset, it’s also a great option for daytime as it’s in town and yet often quiet enough. If you’re feeling daring, head off 300 meters to the right to bare yourself to the world at the nude beach. This is apparently a rare treat in Thailand, which has strict obscenity laws that dictate other areas as well. But stripping down is in full swing here and I thoroughly enjoyed the freedom of that spot on several occasions for the first time in my life. It’s a real treat — highly recommend.
- The Jam: I spent two incredibly beautiful, and yes, magical nights here, which bookended my stay on the island. The first night I went to the Jam was with the aforementioned woman, as well as Ellen and Avi, two new friends. We arrived late after dinner with other acquaintances, a few of which were talented musicians who came for the open mic night, which takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Lack of expectation helped make my first time truly special as I was blown away at the endless stream of talent that found its way to the stage throughout the night. We ended up staying past 2 am as a pianist tickled the keys late into the night. It was truly special. My final night was also spent here and it was lovely in its own regard, this time with old, close friends and new ones alike. The rain put a bit of a damper on the outdoor venue but I savored my time there nonetheless.
- Green Gallery: this spot has a lot to offer. I came for salsa night on Sunday, although I watched my friends from the side, as well as live music nights on other occasions. My friend, Davide, has just restarted his Indigo nights on Wednesdays. Be sure to check that out for amazing live music, dancing and possibly fire-dancers as well. They also serve delicious vegan food.
- Yoga: By this point, it should surprise you not at all that yoga is widely available on the island and in Sri Thanu. Another of my intentions was to practice it a lot here but I somehow came up short as I only got in about three sessions at formal venues. I did practice on my own but for a real treat, go to Orion, which has incredible beachside shalas and talented teachers to practice in. Take my friend, Minty’s, aerial class if she’s still on the island; same goes for Darina. Jenny should be there for a while and her Hatha and Detox classes are not to be missed. Agama is the most famous of the yoga schools for good — and also possibly notorious —reasons. I didn’t get to practice Hatha there but I did take a week-long tantra workshop to finish my time there and it was well worth the time and money. That’s a story for another time but I’m fully keen on taking their level-one course, one of many to learn a strong and clean practice. Also, your first class is always free there, so check that out, as well as the free Bhajans and talks they offer. I can’t speak for other venues but there are plenty more good ones to choose from, like Wonderland, in an idyllic setting (more on that in a bit).
- Innerdance: This one is a bit hard to explain but it is one of the reasons I came to Koh Phangan when I did. All I will say it is a means of activating your Kundalini. When my friend Nicole recommended I do this in Bali, she told me it’s like ayahuasca without the ayahuasca. Do this. Go to my friend, Venant's, Saturday session. Trust me.
- Family Constellation: If you’re looking to heal family and ancestral wounds, this could very well be the thing for you. Nicole, from above, runs these very powerful sessions and I highly recommend her work. Ask me for more details if you’re interested.
- Viewpoints: There are so many on this island but here are some of the favorites. Bluerama has an incredible view and infinity pool to match. I had a coconut and passable curry while I wrote for a few hours. Amsterdam Bar is a great place to take in a sunset with a bit more of a party vibe; I was here on the night of full moon and it was packed but still manageable once we found a place to chill and toke. You can also get trippy shakes here but be warned that they may be strong. 360 Bar lives up to the name with full sweep panoramas over Mae Head and other vistas.
Maybe 45 degrees of 360 bar's full sweep views
- Mae Haad: Jacqueline and I headed here after our first waterfall session together. We had delicious Penang curry and coconuts by the beautiful beach. We also got quite a show and a bit of a scare watching two tourists nearly drown. They got caught in the waves that battered over a sandbar which links a small island, Ko Ma, to the main one. Lesson: don’t take that walk at high tide on a windy day. Thankfully the locals had bamboo poles to fish them out of the rough tide.
- Diving: I had the pleasure of taking my 12th and 13th dives with my friends Charly and Minty. Charly arranged everything with Chaloklum Dive Shop, with whom she had dived before. It was a beautiful day and the dives were quite good. Even with poor viz on the second, we enjoyed a close encounter with a pair of large cuttlefish, which I can only describe as aliens from another world.
- Secret Beach: it ain’t so secret but it’s worth a visit in the morning for a quiet beachside brekkie. Be prepared for crowds that were already arriving by 10 am. Head after to Haad Son Resort where you can enjoy a nice meal on the water with tons of swings to hang from and snorkeling as well. As for better beaches, try…
- Siam Cookies: close to Bluerama, this was a gem of a spot for me. I originally came here to do some writing and ended up coming back many times for delicious pad thais and coconuts in the day and for one sunset beer. The view is stunning, particularly on a sunny day, and you can also head down the very quiet, likely private, beach for lounging and swimming. I highly recommend walking down about 400 meters to the right until you can’t go further, then swim out to the large, dome-like rock. Carefully climb up for some more lounging or if you're daring — and the tide is high enough — take a jump off the backside before heading back in.
Siam Cookie's delectable pad that and view
Alright, all this talk of swimming and pad thais is getting me hungry, so let’s talk about my favorite part, eating on the island.
Where to Eat:
I’m going to try to group my recommendations by category to make it easier as there are so many favorites (I use this word a lot but bear with me, it’s always true) that it’s hard to rank them properly. I’ll do my best to emphasize where you should head first by mentioning them at the top of the category.
Let’s grub!
- Vegetarian/Vegan: Unsurprisingly, there are many of these options to choose from here. My first go-to has to be:
- Karma Kafe, where I spent an inordinate amount of good times. The food is delish — the Burrito, Little Bowl of Goodness, and the Hola are great for mains, and you must try the Carrot Cake with requisite scoops of coconut and chocolate ice cream as well as their Raw Chocolate Cake — but it’s the decor and ambiance that seal the deal. I noticed on my first visit that the soundtrack kept hitting all the right notes for me and by the third time, I had to tell the owner, Brogan, that her music choice was tops. This place is really great.
Two faves: the Karma Burrito and my little coquito, Jacqueline
eat.co is another great option close by. Try the Daal, the Tapas Plate, the Burger, and the Banoffe for dessert.
Eat at Orion after a morning yoga sesh for tasty vegan and/or raw options — the Chia Bomb is the bomb indeed, best enjoyed in a hammock — or have one of their wholesome and filling bowls in a beachside hut. Or just stop by for a coconut.
As I previously mentioned, Green Gallery also is a great vegan option aside from being an awesome evening hangout.
- Thai: eating local food is a requisite and is also cheaper than Western options.
- Annuta is a great first option. They have both great veggie and also meat options for all comers and the staff, like most locals, are super friendly.
- Good Time similarly has good food and friendly staff and is easy to get to in Sri Thanu.
- I went to Pao with tantra classmates for lunch and had a beautiful Thai papaya curry with fish that fondly reminded me of my favorite Cambodian dish, Fish Amok.
- Western/not-Thai food:
- Taboon is incredible and versatile as a middle-eastern/Israeli joint. They have a breakfast menu with my favorite, the Sexy Shakshuka, as well as other Israeli delights served from 7 am. I went for plenty of lunches and dinners as well, the latter allowing you to fully enjoy the souk-like vibes with lanterns and cushions. Try their Bourekas, the Sabih I mentioned earlier, and their Burmese Tea Leaf Salad is one of the best on the island. I first learned about this dish — and the fact that many of the workers are actually Burmese — on the island and made it a must-have for the rest of my time.
- Another spot with excellent Burmese salad is JJ’s. It is the only item — both times with eggs on the side for protein — I ordered on my two visits but they seem to have a diverse and well-liked menu and their location is primo for a sunset dinner on the water.
- Closer up on the beach road is Romanzo Tropicale where you will find the best pizza on the island. It’s not just good for a Thai island, it’s legit pizza, and the setting by the water is perfect for small or big groups.
- I never got to eat at Alcove next door, but I did walk in and the ambiance is really cool — think French Indochinese — especially when the fire-dancers do their routine on the beach for the patrons. You can catch it from Romanzo as well.
- I’m throwing Seed to Feed in this category even though it has one of the best Thai curries I’ve tasted (the name escapes me but it’s the red one in the middle of the menu). They also have western food and great brekkie and the music and setting make it worth the short ride over. It’s on the way to or from Jaran’s so pair them up.
- Crave is run by French-Canadians, so you can get Poutine here if you desire. They also only serve western grub and are lovely people. Try the homemade Passionfruit soda to wash it down.
- Brekkie (breakfast):
- My favorite place for my favorite meal was Bubba’s in Baan Tai, on the “other side” of the island. I made this 20-ish minute drive many times only for this place (and once for quick stop at the dentist for a cleaning, but we went to Bubba’s after). The vibe is great, including the staff and music, and they had my favorite brekkie item, the Mushroom and Green, always ordered with two or three extra poached eggs (the staff may not remember be by name but tell them you’re friends with the guy who always ordered that.) The cold-drip coffee is also one of the best on the island and the chia pudding bowl is yummy.
- Art of Juice is fun by a sweet Balinese woman and serves a tasty Coconut Yogurt bowl with granola and fresh fruit and their omelette is great. Obviously good juices here as well as a spicy ginger-lime tea I enjoyed to quell a queasy tummy.
- If you find yourself in Thong Sala, Nira’s right off the main pier has great coffee, pastries, and eggs as well as a full menu. Super friendly staff as well.
- I mentioned Wonderland earlier, and while they’re a full-service resort, they allow drop-ins for yoga and food. I had my last brekkie here with dear friends and the vegan buffet was scrumptious.
- Places to hang: as the etching in the cement outside Karma Kafe, says, it’s “Island time, all the time.” You can eat and relax pretty much anywhere you go as most places aren’t so busy that they care about turning tables. However, if you want a dedicated place to hang, read, work, etc, try the following:
- Art Cafe immediately reminded me of a treehouse mixed with library and cafe. You can eat here — I had an icily tasty smoothie bowl with goji berries and other toppings — or go for tea or coffee to read and relax. The chai is lovely but it doesn’t match…
- Art in Chai, which has some of the best I’ve ever tasted, and that’s no hyperbole. I always went with coconut milk, which perhaps made it even better. Each order is made from scratch and the place is almost always quiet, so you may enjoy a conversation with the friendly proprietor. The banana loaf is also quite good. I can’t wait to return for another cuppa and to pick back up their Osho book on Compassion.
Finally, there was likely not a day that I went without at least one coconut, if not two. Thai coconuts make me oh so happy, particularly when your friend is on a coconut water fast and gives you all the meat to take yourself. Do yourself a favor and order many of these. They’re more expensive in restaurants (60 baht or so) but you call also get them at certain Fruit Stands; definitely be sure to take full advantage of these. My personal fave is Jackfruit (thanks, Aude!), but I had plenty of watermelon, mango, dragonfruit, papaya and on.
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I could go on about KP — and I will in a later post about some of the lessons I learned — but this will suffice for now. Enjoy the crystal island, hopefully as close to as much as I did.