Sippin' on Some Sidra (or, Drink Like an Asturian)
The tavern was bustling but I spotted opportunity by the end of the bar to sidle up. I decided I had seen enough of Gijon on that grey Sunday after walking off an ample lunch of breaded pollo con jamon y papas fritas. It was time to sip some Sidra, the renowned, regional libation.
Perhaps I also needed to quell my remaining nerves from driving stick for the first time only a few hours back. Yes, I was learning manual on the fly at the expense of my rental car’s unwitting clutch. Despite a few stalls upon arriving in Gijon's traffic, I was quickly getting the hang of it.
I ordered “one,” imagining I’d receive a pint-like serving. The bartender instead brought a half-full bottle and a glass, then poured from above his head into the glass he held at waist-level and behind a metal partition. Quite a flourish from the stoic, mustachioed man.
I sipped what I thought was a normal amount of the subtly sweet and effervescent beverage. Unfiltered and opaque, it had a thicker feel on the tongue, more acidic and less sugary than ciders I was used to at home, all pleasantly so. I took in the scene after that first taste.
A raucous din from the gathered patrons matched the roaring florescent lights. Here, as with the various tabernas scattered through the winding streets, people gathered to chat like they must always have every Sunday prior. Converse to end-of-week rituals I was used to at home, the people here were focused solely on each other instead of screens blaring modern-gladiator sport.
I finished my first glass on my second glug and started to dispense another when a fetching blonde approached from my left to stop me mid-pour.
“Are you foreign?”
Hardly the first time on this trip I’d been outed while making efforts to blend in.
“Si. How did you know?”
Lorena, the kind local, proceeded to instruct me on the proper way to drink sidre as my blatant break with protocol had also broken my cover.
How to blend in with the local scene the next time you find yourself in an Asturian sidrería:
- After ordering, always let your bartender or server do the pouring. The pour from up high serves a purpose beyond machismo; sidra has minimal natural carbonation, so the tall pour helps aerate your next cup.
- Each pour is meant to be guzzled — not sipped — in one go, so raise your cup and knock it back!
- But don’t drink all of it! Save a small amount at the bottom to swish around the cup, then pour the remainder into the bucket at your feet. This swishing “cleans” the glass, which you’re meant to share with your compatriots. Yea, I know, but this certainly lends itself to making fast friends.
- Go slowly between pours! You’re basically shooting cider that’s stronger than the stuff we have stateside. Lorena warned me that the sidra can catch you by surprise, so don’t say I didn’t warn you. And don’t worry, parents, I watched my intake before hitting the road again.
- Sidra goes great by itself & shared with friends, or paired with the local seafood, like (quite possibly) the best octopus I’ve ever tasted.
This pulpo was as good as this picture is bad
I spoke with Lorena and her husband for rest of the hour. Lorena’s English was better than her Venezuelan husband’s (whose father played ball for the Mets), so it was mostly she who spoke. They were both interested in my travels, only a few months in on that Sunday in early June. And they told me about their visits to Mexico and the Caribbean but how they still had NYC/America to cross off their list.
Schmoozing with Lorena and husband and their friends, I soaked up the opportunity to briefly insinuate myself with the local scene. It was yet another perfect example of the warm hospitality I enjoyed on my pilgrimage through Spain. I was headed to Oviedo that afternoon and it was they who suggested I head to the sidra-soaked street where I landed that magnificent pulpo and peas later in the evening.
So now that I think about it, maybe try to pour the bottle yourself the next time you land in a Northern Spanish sidrería and see what kind of fortuitous trouble you find yourself in.
Tips for Gijon & Oviedo (based off a 1.5 day visit)
Gijon: Walk along the Playa de San Lorenzo from the east and catch some rays if the weather permits. Head west to the Roman ruins at the end of the beach and visit the underground exhibit if open (not so on Sundays). Walk around the Cimavilla, the oldest part of the city (as I recall) and also where the tabernas/sidrerías are located. If you’re good to drive after your sidra, head a short distance outside the city to the botanic garden and the Laboral, the cultural center of Gijon and also the largest building in Spain by acreage. They apparently give tours and have many events but sadly I missed all of these, again since it was Sunday.
Then head south to Oviedo…
Oviedo: This is Vicky, Christina, Barcelona-country, so start sthlurring your Ss and grab a pic with Woody at his statue.
Then head to Calle Gascona for late-evening sidra on the street along with scrumptious seafood at any of the establishments there. I went to La Finca, home of that famed pulpo, but I think any sidreria will do.
The next day, go for a walk around the charming town. Although I was starting to get sick of cathedrals by this point, Oviedo’s is worth a visit. Grab a Menu del Dia (three courses and a bottle of wine for 10 euro, what?!) by Mercado El Fontan, then head up to Campo de San Francisco for a stroll around the placid park and a pic with the famous Estatue de Mafalda.
If you’re like me, unfortunately, it’s time to leave to drive east to the Picos de Europa. If you have time, spend at least another night in Oviedo; it’s lovely.
But you should also definitely spend a few days hiking in the Picos (best left for another post). On your way there, stop by the Bufones de Pria. They are cliffs on the north coast with gorgeous views, best known for naturally formed tunnels/chutes to the sea that lace the ground as you near the cliffs. Waves from below fill the chutes with water, pushing air out the holes up top, then sucking the air back in as the waves recede. The huge whooshing noise they make is both intimidating and strangely enticing but keep your distance -- muy peligroso.
Finally, stop by Playa de Gulpiyuri for another anomalous beach formation and more fantastic vistas before heading south into the Picos.
God, I love Spain